Murchison 2013 Jun

Mt Murchison   22-23 June, 2013

The weather forecast had a huge and wonderful high, all weekend. What should we do with this treasure? We had touched the summit of Mt Murchison, but not seen the view. Mt Farrell, when we climbed it, had also been clothed in a thick grey mantel. This would be the weekend to see the view. Off we set.
The trip there was so beautiful, we almost didn’t care if we never got to see a view. Every shrub – every blade of grass – was coated in a sparkling white rime. It was glorious.  We drove through fairyland to get to our mountain.
For the early part of the climb, one is in protective rainforest, but from the moment we emerged from the rainforest’s aegis, the rocks were covered in ice crystals, as below.

My husband had planned on drinking from creeks, and hadn’t brought any water. He was disappointed (in the liquid refreshments available, if not in the scenery). Every single water source, running or not so, was frozen solid.

Beautiful in an austere kind of way, but not much good for drinking

The going was pretty tricky, and became more so the higher we got. Below us, cotton-ball cloud filled the valley, shining glary white. As we neared the rather exposed shelf that my husband had crossed happily in the mist, I decided in slippery ice it would be too tricky, so I left him in a spot with a magical view, and dealt with the final section of ice solo.

Here is a photo of him waiting patiently taken with a zoom from the summit. It seemed from the top as if I could see forever. I photographed in all directions, but didn’t linger: i could see my husband, safe in the distance, but he might be getting cold. Time to go back and join him.
 Even halfway down, the views were inspiring.

And below are two pictures of Murchison taken the next morning. This is one glorious hulk of a mountain!!

 

We then went to Mt Reed that afternoon, and Mt Farrell the next morning, so they were all part of this trip, but I like to allocate each mountain its own space,  so I will give the other pets their own separate post.

Farrell 2013 Jun

Mt Farrell   23 June 2013

The high forecast by the Bureau of Meteorology stayed high. Hoorah. This was our second time climbing Mt Farrell, but would be the first with a view. I was very curious to see what we’d missed on the first time. What glorious weather, and what we saw was wonderful.

Cortinarius rotundisporus

Unidentified fungi

There is a track up Mt Farrell. I am revisiting this post after many years and realise I’ve given you no details. I hope the pictures are enough to please.

Read 2013 Jun

Mt Read   22 June 2013
As said in the Murchison entry, these two mountains were done in the same weekend, but I decided to file them separately.
We climbed Murchison on the Saturday morning, and wanted to go up Read after lunch that afternoon, saving Farrell for the early golden light of the following day.
I had the map. We set out. It was not a case of veni, vidi, vici, alas. We were met with the “locked gates of Tasmania” phenomenon, and spent the next two and a half hours – longer than the ascent + descent of Murchison – trying to gain some kind of near starting point. Eventually, with light fading all too quickly, we dumped the car in the township of Rosebery, and set out. There’s a road all the way, so one is not going to get lost in the dark, and it was a glorious, albeit bitterly cold, evening.
Here is what we found: wonderful in short.

 Moonrise behind Murchison across the valley

 

Later, and looking towards the west
 

Mt Field NP 2013

Mt Field West  Attempt  15-16 June, 2013

Unfortunately, at Lake Dobson, the precipitation took the form of rain. As we climbed, brushing against soaked bushes and slopping through pools and risen rivulets, our lower halves became wet through. The exertions of climbing also meant that our top halves were damp with sweat from the inside. By the time we reached Newdigate Hut, the rain had changed to the promised snow, which is warmer than rain, but we were already freezing from being wet. We ate a hasty morning tea, eager to keep moving.


At the top of Newdigate Pass, we realised that we had up until this point been sheltered from the main brunt of the wind. Now it slapped us in the face, driving piercing shards of sago snow into our exposed facial skin. I zipped my anorak to the top, which is between my mouth and nose. The hood I dropped forward to half cover my eyes. I just had a tiny window to peep out of so I could locate the next pole or cairn, but that was enough for the gale to find and lance me. Soon enough, however, the glorious sight of a triangle of metal signifying the emergency shelter on K-col took form through the thick mist. Shelter at last. We opened the door with relief. I stopped singing my adaptation of Lawson’s The Team:
A snipe of snow on a bouldery ’road’
And the team goes creeping on. 
Inch by inch with the weary load; 
And by the power of the blizzard’s goad

The distant goal is won.

 

                                                It was lunchtime. The day was still young – but we had very little hope of being able to continue and summit our mountain. Perhaps tomorrow things would improve. But should we give up yet? Well, not quite yet, so we ate lunch in our sopping gear, dancing on the spot at frequent intervals to try to prevent gelidity. The sound of the wind’s fury did not abate, and nano-peeps out the door indicated that snow was still falling. We all had tents, but no one was willing to brave the weather and pitch.  Eventually at some point after lunch we admitted defeat and changed into our set of dry clothes. I was most reluctant to do this, despite being desperately cold, as once in that gear, I wouldn’t be able to go outside, and I knew I’d need the toilet at some point, but my core temperature was dropping rapidly, so I shed the wet layers and climbed most prematurely (it was only a bit after 2) into my sleeping bag as advised by the others. It seemed shocking to do this so early, but I saw no other hope of warming up. I was wearing two merino icebreakers, an Arcteryx coat and a down jacket (the last two with hoods), a beanie, gloves, Helly longs, overpants and woollen socks, all dry, but was still cold, so I obediently climbed in. A-M sat on my feet to try to warm them for me. Soon we had a row of four all trying to warm the one in front like penguins in a blizard. It began to get mildly cosy.


We spent the rest of the afternoon joking, laughing, telling silly tales, and listening to B who read us Italian Fairytales that I’d brought up the mountain for just this purpose. We put off dinner, as once it got dark it would be harder to amuse ourselves. We were all also reluctant to get out of our bags to cook. I was not the only one dreading the idea of needing the toilet – one of many sources of ribald humour during the afternoon (wit of jokes no doubt enhanced by A-M’s spiced rum). I deliberately drank nothing with dinner to reduce trips outside. Somehow we managed to joke around until almost 9 pm, after which we made an attempt at official sleep. Two climbed into the tiny mezzanine floor; the other three set up bed on the chairs below.


All night those of us who were awake (= all of us) could hear the wind raging against the frame of our shelter. Snow banked up against the door. We would not be summitting this trip. After breakfast, we had do decide what, if any, dry gear we would save for an emergency. Most of us donned our wet garments. My socks were sodden but I didn’t even have the resolve or whatever it took to wring them out, and I didn’t want to use my dry ones. What was the point? My shoes were saturated. My overpants were damp and cold, but on they went, over the dry overpants and Helly longs I was already wearing. For my top half, I kept on all the clothes from the night as above, but exchanged a fleece for the down jacket so that I had an extra dry upper layer left (as well as the usual full thermal body cover, still dry in my pack). My gloves had been knocked inadvertently onto the floor during the night. They were frozen so solidly I couldn’t change the shape to force my fingers in. I elected to throw caution to the wind and use my last pair of dry gloves that would, indeed, get wet within 30 seconds of being out there, but I just couldn’t face another wet layer. The icy ones were now so hateful to me I didn’t even want to carry them for another day. My anorak was also a frozen, metallic sheet of armour, but I had so many layers on top (6 already before I donned it) that the ice from that garment would take a while to reach me. Off we set into the mist and driving gale. I plodded like an automaton over the icy, treacherous rocks – one foot in front of the other and you’ll get there – and sang in my mind my new adaptation to the second verse of Lawson’s poem:

With eyes half-shut to powdery mist,
And necks to the ground bent low, 
The walkers are walking as walkers must; 
And due to the strength of the icy blast, 
The moving pace is slow.

Although we were plodding with heads to the ground to try to avoid ice attack, there was still opportunity to notice how wonderful the rocks and plants were with their mantel of snow. It was beautiful, and we were thrilled to be out in it, – despite the discomfort – and exhilarated to be part of nature’s unattenuated wildness.

We were slow, yes, but we got there, and had a chocolate break at Newdigate Hut. My bodily system had closed down in the extreme cold, so eating chocolate (or drinking icy water?) brought on violent stomach cramps for the next uncomfortable hour to the next emergency shelter. The final part was a breeze. Now I’m home I keep finding it hard to believe that I can just go out the door without being assaulted by ice.

Three Capes Track Tasman Peninsula 2013 Jun

Three Capes Track June 2013. (The real, old one; not the tourist version)

Unfortunately, I had family commitments the weekend I visited this beautiful area, which has now been very much opened to the general public with the popular Three Capes Walk. This visit was a kind of final farewell to the track as it used to be – a narrow bush path built by clubs before tourism took over and converted it into a highway. I am told the highway is very nice, and I realise more walks are needed for tourists … as long as Tasmanians who built these tracks and who pay taxes on them are not locked out in the process. I fear sometimes we are selling our souls to the tourist industry. It is such a delicate balance and a difficult game to play.
Here is a photo story of my brief visit.
 

 

Unidentified fungi

 

flammulina velutipes 

 

 

 

 

Looking forward to returning!