Knyvet Falls 2018 Dec

Knyvet Falls 2018 Dec

On this very stormy and dangerous day in December, I set my alarm and drove in the dark to Cradle Mountain, all mentally prepared to go canyoning with a commercial group. Fifteen minutes before arriving, I got a message to say that regrettably, the adventure had been cancelled. Anyone who participates in outdoor activities should know that it is wise and sensible to call it quits before someone gets seriously hurt. The canyons will stay exactly where they are.

But here I was at Cradle. What should I do, given that it was dangerous to go up high on a day like this? I decided that this was the perfect occasion to photograph Knyvet Falls and their nearby neighbour, Pencil Pine Falls. Normally, I am all eagerness to get higher and further than this, so did not have any good photos of either falls.

The walk to the falls was minimal (7 mins 30 from the Visitor Information Centre – signed), but I then spent the next three hours immersed in nature, photographing and having this beautiful area all to myself (thanks, no doubt, to the weather): just water, trees and Louise … perfect. (Pencil Pine Falls will get their own blog, viz. www.natureloverswalks.com/pencil-pine-falls/).

Hidden Falls (Meander) 2018

Hidden Falls (Meander) 2018 Nov / Dec

It took me three tries to get there with all my equipment to offer you these shots:

Time A
I never found Hidden Falls. They were true to their name. What fun. I must come back and search more effectively next time.

Time B
Now I was back with more information, and found them  very quickly. (This time I knew which bump in the contours contained the falls.) Being allowed to navigate my own way to the falls was as much fun as orienteering. There are so few places remaining these days that retain a little challenge for the more adventurous – and I love a challenge. I also love the freedom to make mistakes. I don’t want to be a robot or a puppet. I go to the bush for freedom.

The few people who have seen these falls said they were special, but as I gazed with wonder, and tried to analyse what made them special – and compared them to other, similar falls where you have a shower effect (such as Bridal Veil Falls) – it seemed to me that it was not so very much the pretty shower, the height or even the kind of amphitheatre structure that gave this place its primary allure; rather, it was its unspoiled nature, unblemished by human infrastructure, rubbish and trappings … and the intrigue of the search.

In bygone days, I would have told you how to get to these falls, trusting you to be a proper bushwalker who could navigate to the place if given basic directions, and presuming you would leave it exactly as you found it, as real bushwalkers do. But nowadays, I won’t, as if I did, the pink tape bandits would march in, put tape every two metres to guide the people who don’t have enough bushcraft to get there by themselves, and all sanctity will be lost. So much of our bush is being dumbed down, but not this tiny bit, so I will leave it its allure.

I feel we need to leave some holy places; somewhere like this is far more special than a human made church building, and yet, we who love nature in this way are having all our spiritual places stolen by people who do not share our reverence, and yet who demand to see all these places. Lots of falls have aesthetically pleasing and tiny paths to them for people who can’t navigate, and yet these pretty paths are being rubbished with unnecessary and ugly strips of pink plastic.

After I had sat and enjoyed the spiritual nature of this pristine place, I got out my camera to photograph it, for I love to interact with nature photographically; it is my artistic response to the beauty I am witnessing. I perched on a slippery log and got out my tripod and the other trappings needed for this task, and set up the first shot. Now, before I continue, let it be stressed: before I left home, I checked the state of my battery (and for its presence in my camera) and I deleted all the photos from the memory card to keep it clear. But now, my camera was telling me there was no memory card. It seems that it’s possible to carry out the function “delete all photos on card” without actually having a card present. Oh swear, swear.

Time C.
This time I had my camera, complete with memory card and battery. And the above photos show what Hidden Falls look like.

Tahune Falls

Tahune Falls 2017

The Frenchmans Cap track (see below) is incorrectly marked on the List map, and, if you go by it, you would never see Tahune Falls. The track on the ground, however, crosses the creek which runs into Lake Tahune and runs to its left for a while, so if you stay on the track and don’t try to stay on the black dashed line on the map, and if you pay attention to sound and the hints of sight, you may find Tahune Falls on your way up to Frenchmans Cap. Given that most people find climbing Frenchmans to be a long task, I suggest you visit these falls on your way back.

I noticed them on my way up to climb a far flung peak called Clytemnestra (not on any tracks, and over the other side of those fearsome vertical cliffs the other side of the beret’d gent). My friend and I got back to our tents, and she wanted to retire to hers to sleep. I didn’t, so took myself back up the hill to these falls. I met another guy there, and we spent a delightful while together, just gazing at the flowing water and enjoying what the gentle falls had to offer before going back to the lake to cook dinner.

Liffey River ramble 2018 Dec

Liffey River ramble 2018

My ramble on the Liffey River was part II of one of those days when everything that can go wrong, did. Well, nearly. … Or, more correctly, so it seemed at the time, but now I am back home and can assess a little more rationally, I realise that I and my dog (and family) are still alive; I didn’t fall asleep at the wheel; the head-on collision I nearly had didn’t materialise; I didn’t fall in the river and crash or drown my camera. A lot of worse things could have happened, but the things that did go wrong felt bad at the time.

So, then, exactly what went wrong? The day began well enough. I drove to Bastion Cascades carpark, and from there, in under an hour, bagged the  holy Hidden Falls – all the more wonderful precisely because they are hidden; precisely because there is not a huge ugly highway leading to them, or shockingly tasteless bits of fluorescent tape dangling from every second tree (there was enough of that on the main track to drown the world in plastic). One has to work for Hidden Falls, and the having-to-work component makes them more desirable.

Intersection Pool, Liffey River
The trouble began right here, however. When I went to take my first shot, my camera refused, telling me I had no memory card. I was devastated. I took a stupid Galaxy shot or two, just because I had to do something, but I knew I wouldn’t be sharing such photos. Phone shots are not my thing: I only take them under duress. Like someone who had lost something, I walked the hour back to the car, and drove the further hour home. There was the card beside my computer.

I had only had two hours’ exercise, so had restless legs. I ate, did a few home jobs, and then set out for part two of my day: pools and cascades on the Liffey River in the less-explored regions above the falls. Unfortunately, I didn’t arrive here until 4.30. Off I set, eager to see some more beauty.

The track was great. It got damaged badly in the Big Storm, and has not been repaired, so there are heaps (literally) of obstacles to climb over or crawl under (I crawled on the way out, climbed over or went around on the way back). Many timber mounds were taller than I am (and long, and wide), so they posed quite an interesting challenge. I wormed my way forward. At times you’d be on a track wide enough for a vehicle, and the next thing, you’d be searching for it amongst the ferns, but it was there, and I enjoyed that challenge too. I don’t want elements of my life to be dumbed down so I am a mere puppet. I hate this nanny mentally that is the prevailing mood.

The track became even more beautiful after the river. This track is subtle; it has the usual red and yellow triangles, tastefully placed, not too often, but often enough to let you know you’re still on the track. You have to use a tiny bit of brain power to read the signs of where humans have been, but it is not university mathematics. And meanwhile, you get to be part of nature, as your gaze is not interrupted by pink plastic. It’s a wonderful compromise between aid and destruction, helping people traverse nature whilst leaving it relatively intact. It seems to me that very few of these attractive and tasteful tiny paths remain.

Mouse Pool, Liffey River
Robin, my informant, had said 30 minutes along this track to where it meets the river. I was pleased to be there after all that climbing of obstructions in 24. Now, he said the next bit was also 30. So, I reasoned, I’d start looking after 20, as when I go uphill, I usually take more time off estimates than on the flat. However, after 26 minutes, I had not reached my goal, but was all impatience to photograph, so I decided to call it quits here. Maybe I overshot my goal. If I have made a mistake, I don’t care!! Better to be allowed to make mistakes than to have all originality, all creativity and freedom destroyed by the regimentation of pink tape. I can return and do better next time. Yes. I want the freedom to make errors please. Wilderness and freedom should be bedfellows.

The first two shots here are of this turnaround point, which I have labelled “Intersection Pool”, as a tributary comes in off the left near this point. The second group of three is of a pool 10 minutes’ walk from the meeting of “former road” and river. I called that one Mouse Pool, as it looks like there’s a giant mouse to the right of the cascade, just coming in for a sip of the great drop. My final pool photo I’ve called Introduction Pool, as it was the first one on my way up that I made a mental note to photograph on my way back. Why name them? Just so we can talk to each other about these pools, and to distinguish them one from the other. If Robin tells me he has other names, I’ll change mine to his.

Mouse drinking at her pool, Liffey River
“Excuse me,” you say, “I thought you were in the middle of arguing that everything went wrong” Ah yes, well, here it begins again. This time when I began to photograph, I noticed that my f-stop was stuck on 00. I spent the next 40 minutes trying to coax it to work, and trying to trick it into moving off that distressing number. I pressed every button possible on the outside, and visited every possibility on the menu. Nothing worked. I tried going from manual to bulb to AV, TV … nothing would do it. But then I noticed the camera was also refusing to focus. Ah huh. An electrical problem. Maybe I got it wet in my pack? Maybe the connections aren’t good?? I took the lens off, cleaned the attachments, and put it back on. Presto. Problem solved. Pity about the 40 minutes sitting in the stream as time went rapidly by and it got darker and darker. I then started fainting. I don’t like fainting. I was sweating a fury and very dizzy (I am just out of bed after a week’s flu). I decided an increase in blood sugar would help, even though I also felt like vomiting, so interrupted photography with eating. That cured that problem.

Now, I did notice that it was getting very dark, but thought that was due to a renewed attempt by the clouds to gather for the next bout of rain. It was only after I got into the car and started the engine that I saw the time. It was already 8.30!! When your exposures are between 30 secs and 3 minutes each, and when you take a  lot of shots trying different aspects and frames, it all adds up. Hm. At this rate, I would be lucky to get any dinner.

Introduction Pool, Liffey River
The second last thing that went wrong was that in the dark, and perhaps in my haste, somewhere after Bracknell I became confused on the way home, and now had no visual cues to help me. Suddenly, all the signs said either Hobart or Burnie (or tiny, insignificant places), but nothing anywhere said Launceston. I was not in phone range. I lost a great deal of time wandering in the dark, hoping for signs that I never got, visiting places I didn’t want to see. I finally arrived in Launceston at 9.35. Of course, Harri Curry was closed, and it was my only hope for food that late. I went home, had a few scraps of cauliflower for dinner, and decided breakfast could be a feast. Beauty is more important than food. Despite all my problems – and hopefully I’ve got the whole bang lot of possibilities dispensed with in one single hit – my abiding memory of the afternoon is of a magical section of primitive, relatively untouched forest, a marvellous study in greens and browns. Long may it remain so.

Bastion environs 2018

Bastion Environs 2018 Nov 24th

This blog was going to be titled “Hidden Falls”, but, as said falls remained true to their condign name, and as we, the searchers, returned home empty handed of that particular waterfall, I have had to label it “Bastion Environs”, for in our search for this Holy Grail, we roamed far and wide in the upper environs of Bastion Creek and its minor tributaries. I can unequivocally report that these Hidden Falls are NOT on Bastion Creek, where one web report places them, and neither do they lie on any of its mapped tributaries.

Diaphanous Falls
But hey, I am an orienteer, and am more than accustomed to the control description “shallow gully”, so we searched lots of those too. We have eliminated all shallow gullies adumbrated by the map except for two, adjacent to each other. We agreed that, given the lie of the land, the placement of cliffs and more, one of these two adjacent tiny gullies must contain our prize. I marked our guess with a waypoint. Since then, I have had our guess confirmed, and we have an exact location. I will return while the water is still flowing nicely.

Gossamer Falls Upper
Do not feel one scrap sorry for us that we didn’t get our goal today. Working for a prize makes it all the more precious – and there were many fabulous consolation prizes along the way. The most hidden of these rewards I dubbed the very boring Hidden Falls B, until Steve suggested The Waterslide. This is a perfect name for these falls. You really did feel you were gazing at a brilliantly constructed waterslide. And why should they live in perpetual declaration of their failure to be the real thing, Falls A? So, The Waterslide it is. Other falls nearer to the Bastion Cascades that occupied our photographic attention and time were what we have called Diaphanous Falls (to the right staring at the main falls), and Gossamer Falls Upper and Lower (to the left). None of these falls is on the map. There are no official names we know of; the names are ours and we like them.

Gossamer Falls Lower
And what else did we do with our eight and a half hours’ elapsed time? We photographed, I sang, Steve recovered, I ate, we stared spellbound at beautiful places and we chatted. Steve is a new friend, made through the Waterfalls of Tasmania Facebook page. The next day, I was going to meet up with Jai, another new friend from that group. Carrie, with whom I have had many fun adventures, and Craig, Bec and Caedence are also friends I have met and explored waterfalls with via this group, to name just a few. Our shared love has brought us together. Meanwhile, I feel I know the Bastion environs to the north and west quite intimately, and yet I have by no means explored all its photographic potential. That said, I returned home with 98 photos to edit. Sigh.


The Waterslide