In my family, we value time – and in particular, time together – far more than things, and, although I was given some very nice “things”, my most treasured gift of my recent birthday was the time that my Tassie family was able to give me: three days, although, in fact, it kind of became a birthday week.
Adventure Bay, Bruny Island
And what extravagant thing did we do with this time together? A luxury cruise? A flight somewhere? No. We rented an AirBnb at Adventure Bay on Bruny Island and had bushwalks, fungi hunts, beach races and a mountain climb. Here is our itinerary: Day 0. Arrive
Adventure Bay, Bruny Island
Day 1. Photograph the dawn. A.m.: Fungi hunt in the Mavista Reserve (5 kms). Picnic lunch on an unnamed beach. And in the afternoon, my daughter and I walked the Labillardiere Track while Keith minded the children. This was 25 km equivalents, done at a talking march in 3 hrs 30. We both enjoy a good workout, and walking quickly meant the time we were gone was less. Our route was clockwise, and we really loved the second half of this route, along the coast with myriad beaches and the water beside us. The sign says 6 – 6.5 hours, which would be more realistic as a meander pace.
Adventure Bay, Bruny IslandHatching Aseroa rubra Mavista Reserve
Day 2. Lucky I didn’t run that 25 kms yesterday, as the children chose beach racing as the morning’s activity, and I was about to need all my legs could offer, which wasn’t quite enough. The beach is 1.7 kms long. Based on his speed when he joined me on a training run last year, I gave Gus 30 seconds’ start. He shot out on “Go” like a bullet. I thought: “There’s no way he’ll keep that up; I’ll catch him shortly after half way.”
Waves, Adventure Bay
He covered a lot of ground in his thirty seconds! Off I set in hot pursuit, but appeared to be gaining absolutely nothing. Somewhere in the halfway region, I thought maybe I had reined in a single metre, but he pulled ahead again, and once he sniffed the finish approaching, was off like a chasing cheetah to the line, making distance on me with every stride. This is the first time he has legitimately beaten me, and he did it with style. We celebrated his win with an ice cream. I am proud of him. Good distance running is the reflection of a good lifestyle, not just good genes.
The thrill of the chase, Adventure BayMaking dad feel slowAdventure Bay. Beach running is such fun.
Meanwhile, and not to be totally outdone by big brother, little Abby made dad look slow, even if he wasn’t on full throttle. She just can’t wait to be old enough to do school races like Gussy does. At five she will be offered a Teddybear race and Egg and spoon. I’m not sure if she’ll be allowed a straight sprint.
Hypholoma australe
In the afternoon, we all climbed Mt Mangana, with many, many colourful fungi to be cheered about along the way. Gussy helped me photograph a selection on our way back down.
Fluted Cape walk. Gussy about to reach the highest point on the trackFluted Cape Track highpoint.
Day 3. Unfortunately, we had to pack up for the first part of the morning, but were then able to squeeze in the Fluted Cape walk before lunch. Gussy and I took about fifty minutes in each direction; Abby, a bit longer. This time we did the route anti-clockwise. I have now done it in both directions, and am really hard pressed to say which one I prefer: each offers different advantages.
Fluted Cape walk. By the cliffsFluted Cape walk. Looking to Penguin IslandFluted Cape walk. Gussy in actionFluted Cape walk. Gussy in action
And sadly, after lunch it was time to drive home. I could happily live on Bruny!
Ever stuffed up arrangements for the start of a walk? What did you do?
Here’s what I did on this occasion.
As I explained in my previous blog*, I had been up most of the night worrying, getting only three hours’ sleep, before driving 2.5 hours north to pack my bag. There was then a 3.5 hours’ drive to reach my meeting place with the other bushwalkers of the group in the far SW of the state. Trouble is, with so much fatigue, so little sleep and so very much stress, despite setting out before the others, I didn’t quite make our rendez-vous, and when I tried to find them early next morning, they were neither where they said they’d sleep, nor where they would park at the start of the walk. I searched and drove to and fro for half a day. Had I found their car, I would have given chase, but there was no sign of it. Had they had an accident or been unexpectedly delayed? I drove back to the Needles saddle, where there is range, but there was no sign of a missed call or message. By an early lunchtime, I decided I now had what was left of three days to do my own thing. Oh the choices!!!! Such a wealth of them once one is down in the south west!
Hygrocybe firma at the base of The Needles. I was not expecting fungi here!
I had been going to climb to Pandani Shelf for photographic purposes (not using the out-of-bounds route), but the reality and the forecast proclaimed that clouds would dominate up there, so I decided for some lower joys that would nonetheless involve climbing.
Blandfordia punicea. I WAS hoping for that. These are called Christmas Bells. They seem to have failed to have noticed that it’s March.
I ate an early lunch, and settled on my first goal: The Needles, which I have climbed many times before, but never with small children in mind. Now was the time to climb specifically watching for aspects that might daunt pint-size people (like metre-high steps or huge mud baths). If all was well, then we could come here as a family in April. I have also never devoted time on the Needles to examining the flora of the region, and was interested to see if plants were recovering after the fires of two years ago.
My other question was, how long would it take: was it a good length for a diminutive five year old?
Geum talbotianum
The pictures tell you that I found very beautiful flowers, and meanwhile, I decided that we can definitely bring the children, although Abby will need lifting (“flying”, she calls it) over some of the two-metre-long stretches of gooey mud, … and perhaps a hand up some of the steeper parts where sliding backwards is possible (very few of these).
The amount of burnt devastation is very sad, and yet the new growth brings hope, and many of the shrubs are recovering nicely. I even found a Geum talbotianum, which the web tells me is on the threatened species list.
Back in the carpark, I met two other very friendly plant enthusiasts, who recommended Tims Track to me, so that seemed like an excellent suggestion. My focus would switch to fungi.
Possibly Cortinarius austrocinnabarinus
The above fungi were the first to greet me. How could you miss that? They were huge and bold and cheery. I had met more lovely people in the carpark here, so was feeling generally cheerful. I might be alone on this trip, but I was certainly not lonely, and was enjoying meeting other like-minded souls.
Cortinarius sinapicolor
The above fungus was part of a little cluster of canary yellow fungi, also pretty big and bold, yelling “Hello” to me as I involved myself with their world.
Hygrocybe lewelliniae
The Hygrocybe lewelliniae I happened upon was far more subtle. I don’t always require a siren to stop me in my tracks. This fungus has now changed its name, but I am sick of unlearning and learning anew, only to have the new one change – and of buying expensive books to have them out of date by the time I’ve brought them home. I express my discontent by using the names I have originally learned (mostly), and by not buying a $50 update which I know is already behind the times. Also, philosophically (and possibly more to the point), I am a joiner rather than a divider. Constantly splitting genera into smaller groups doesn’t suit my personality. Where we place dividing lines is a decision made by humans about nature; nature doesn’t necessitate that particular decision.
Mt Cullen: climbingMt Cullen: climbing
So, before I aggravate any more splitters, let us move on to my next goal, Mt Cullen, which had been on my bucket list for many years. It is the combination of the long drive and the problem of always needing to find a dog-sitter that has kept me away. Here was my golden opportunity. Having not planned to be here, I had no information, so just chose a starting point that looked appealing and climbed up.
Mt Cullen summit area
I reached the first “summit” in 52 minutes; however, it was not the real summit. Now I was up high, I could see that the ridge led to a higher point, just across the way. However, the route was decorated with jagged rocks with a precipitous drop, and scrub in between. I battled the scrub rather than losing height (bad move), and eventually reached the summit with a bit of acrobatic work that I was not actually comfortable with, so chose an easier route for my exit / descent. It was not necessary to be so “daring”. Anyway, the twenty minutes that summit to summit took helped me kill some time: I had hoped I could spin the climb out for long enough to get sunset from a slightly raised perch, yet still get down with enough light to avoid an accident.
Mt Cullen sunset – not an overdose of colour, but better than nothing.
Once I was sure I could easily get down without trouble, I just sat and appreciated being there, waiting for colour. It was not a grand fanfare, but I enjoyed it nonetheless.
Back at the car, I had to decide which of all the thousands of possible spots to choose from, would be my piece of territory for the night. I chose a beach, parked the car, prepared it for sleeping and enjoyed the rest of the fading light while perched on a rock eating my dinner.
Lake Pedder dawn
The menu for day two was pretty similar to that of day one: A mountain or two, some recce work, fungi, wildflowers and beautiful forest.
The recce work was on Mt Wedge, sussing it out for the possibility of sleeping on high – but tonight was not going to offer any views, so I’d bide my time. The new mountain was Twelvetrees Range, which I really loved. Its open ridge had a “Sound of Music” feel to it. I could easily have been on Skye, in the Lakes or in Iceland up there with no bush to bash through and big views of water and other mountains. It was great choose-your-own-route stuff, and I wandered happily all over the ridge top. Doing it like that meant the descent to the road at the end was VERY steep. (Under an hour up; more than, down, as I chose a longer, harder route).
Twelvetrees Range – one of my favourite sections
I rewarded myself with food from the lodge, and then set about exploring the Lodge’s Forest Walk (no great finds there today), the Creepy Crawly Trail (this would be more correctly named The Ducky Weavy Trail) and revisiting Tims Track. The weather was far from photographically exciting, so I wended my way slowly east.
I love that cute, almost transparent Hygrocybe graminicolor . You may well be asking where the green is, but it can often be washed out like this. The form of its friends and neighbours enjoying the same moss close by indicates to me it was just bigger and more fragile then they were, but still part of the happy family.
I was going to sleep near the Needles, but the wind was howling and the dark clouds were swirling around me, and I decided that after all I have been through recently, I didn’t feel like moody but felt more like being beside a stream nearer the Mt Field National Park so headed even further east, arriving at my spot by the river after dark.
Aurantiporus pulcherrimus
On my final day, my choice seemed to be between climbing Mt Mawson or more fungi hunting. The fungi had been so rewarding I opted for them, so explored the area around the Junee River, with some good finds.
Junee River
And thus ends my weekend: a lot less strenuous than originally planned, but perhaps that was exactly what my body needed, and I certainly found some lovely jewels, and even met some friendly people in carparks – always a bonus.
What do you do in times of stress? Here is what I did.
My daughter went to hospital yesterday to hopefully give birth after too many miscarriages. Her waters broke at 6 a.m.. At about the same time I pulled out of the drive to travel south to have breakfast number two with my Hobart family, 2.5 hours away.
How do you kill a day punctuated with meaningful texts from your son-in-law telling you your daughter is being brave but there’s not much progress? Her pain continued.
Laccaria sp
First I went running on the Pipeline track, followed by fungi hunting (and catching) in the Fern Tree area, in a mossy, peaceful glade, whose serenity provided a break from this world by transferring me to one in which there was neither time nor pain: only beauty. I entered the world of plants and was made welcome. For me, to photograph fungi is to dissolve myself and enter their world; to become temporarily part of it. We are one as I devote myself to representing the magic of that world.
Mycena sp
Emerging from that aegis, I checked messages and drove higher, to the Big Bend area near the top of kunanyi (Mt Wellington) where I switched from a green, moist, protected world to a wild, windy, grey one, but one in which a few flowers could be found lingering into early autumn. The challenge of focus stacking in the wind distracted me a while.
Gaultheria hispida Snowberry
Messages checked; I transferred location to the Springs, where, I confess, it was hard to find flowers through the tears now falling.
Billadiera longiflora Climbing blueberry
I had not wanted lunch, so decided it was time to walk the eager dogs who know nothing of maternal angst, after which it was time to walk to collect children from school and walk them home.
So far the exercise tally was looking pretty good and it was to get much better.
The after-school activity for Wednesday is Orienteering. I think I entirely forgot I was worried as I did the Novice course with tiny Abby and her friend Riva, and then tackled the first third of the long course with young Gus, who discussed at each control his plan and then executed it with me shadowing for safety. A bit of chatter decorates exertion.
Ozothamnus ledifolius (Asteraceae) Big Bend
There is still no progress. Now Yelena needs an epidural block as she has been in pain for over half a day and it is taking control. Having not felt like lunch, I ate dinner with gusto (and it was delicious).
We were given an ETA of 2 a.m. I was exhausted and went to bed around 11.
Lomatia polymorpha Big Bend
At 12.20 there’s a text announcing a Caesar. I wait. 1.30. No news. I am not going to sleep, so I dress and pace the streets of South Hobart, now allowing shocking fears to take shape.
Some people drink; some smoke; some take harder drugs. I pace. I paced through the night Bruce disappeared. Pacing helps me enter some zone of semi-oblivion that smothers pain, sorrow, frustration, anger, loneliness or any of life’s negative emotions. It detoxes and de-stresses me in moments of trial. Swimming laps and running have the same function: their regular pattern induces a kind of hypnotic trance that quietens the orderly left hemisphere and allows the poetic, creative and freer right hemisphere to wander.
Very nice Louise.
Lomatia polymorpha
At last at 2.40 there is news. Mother and baby are alive. I don’t care about fingers and toes, weight or name. I just want life and now I have it. Time to walk back to the house and get three hours’ sleep before driving back to Launceston, packing my bush pack and driving to the far SW of our island for a three-day walk.
And for those who’d like to know, my 161 cm daughter gave birth to a bouncing 51 cm boy. Oh life is glorious. He has already won our hearts completely.
Tarkine: Nelson Bay Falls, Elver Falls, fungi and flowers.
Sunrise at Stanley, the start of a very long day
It seems I am a girl who drove a very long way for something that never happened, as the reason I went to the Tarkine was to kayak to the Elver Falls. However, when I got to Arthur River “township”, I couldn’t raise the people who hired out the boats (the river cruise man said they probably hadn’t put their hearing aids in yet). The shed in which the boat was hiding looked as if it needed a lot more than a hearing aid.
Of course I had to photograph the Nut
The images available around the shed were of very elderly canoes, not of kayaks at all, and they looked a little like tubs. The wind was up and my broken wrist is only just out of its cage. My spirit of adventure was thus not high. I was prepared to kayak but canoeing made me uncertain, and I really felt uneasy in this state about popping my expensive camera gear in such a vessel. I had been very happy at Corinna, where the kayaks had a waterproof hold, and where everything seemed in excellent condition, but Arthur River ‘town’ just wasn’t doing it for me.
First kayak substitute: The Edge of the World, Arthur River
So, instead of kayaking, I went for a walk along a beach possibly more than appropriately dubbed ‘The Edge of the World’. It was remote, windy and atmospheric. The rocks were fabulous colours, and, as I enjoy wild seas, this substitute pleased. As usual for the Tarkine, however, I needed to get moving, as I didn’t want to eat greasies at Arthur River when lunchtime came, so needed to get somewhere that sold something more nutritious and tasty by late lunch.
Nelson Bay River Falls
South I drove, lamenting the fact that one seems to do far more driving than walking in the Tarkine, until I reached the Nelson Bay River, which sports a pretty waterfall within a stone’s throw (literally) of the bridge. I got to walk at least twelve paces at this spot. Luckily Tessie and I had had a lovely long walk on the beach at Stanley after breakfast, before leaving, so the day, which didn’t seem to be shaping up too well at this stage, wasn’t entirely devoid of exercise.
Nelson Bay River Falls
I decided to return to the north coast via the Julius River Reserve, as it offers a tiny little walk, and maybe there would be some fungi. My hunch was rewarded: there were indeed some wonderful fungi, and I found a second little walk, but I was feeling very under-exercised indeed. By the time I had finished with Julius River, however, I had eaten the lasagne I had brought and some snacks, and I really needed more food, so for the third time in three visits, I found myself exiting the Tarkine sooner than I might have, as I was hungry.
Epacris lanuginosa near the fallsMelaleuca squarrosa nearby
Sure, when I’m bushwalking I have my own food, but I am not bushwalking here. If I have to do lots of driving, then I like to reward myself with coffee and cake, and something tasty for lunch. Dehydrated food requires the eater to have exercised all day and be extraordinarily hungry before it even begins to taste tolerable. (After a full day’s walking, you’ll be pleased to learn, it tastes absolutely delicious.)
Camarophyllopsis ‘yellow’Clavulinosis sulcata Tarkine Julius R reserve
Anyway, on we drove, heading for the shortest route home, which seemed to be via Smithton. By the time I reached the nice cafe above Boat Harbour, it was well after three o’clock and I was ravenous. That cafe fixed that, and on I drove home, arriving a couple of hours later with a whopping headache from too much driving.
Russula persanguinea
It seems that if I want to see the Elver Falls, I need to find someone with a double kayak who would also like to see them, or hire a light singleton near home and take it there from here. No matter. It wasn’t to be this time, and now I have recovered from all that driving, I have happy memories of beaches and fungi and a few flowers ….. and of being hungry.
Quite some time ago, several friends had told me about the existence of a waterfall at Cornwall, but no one could tell me where it was. I had a good map stare, and decided where I thought it should be, or hoped it might be, and drove to Cornwall to test my theory. I got to the road I wanted to follow, but grew uncertain as to whether I was allowed to go along it. Luckily, someone looked to be home at the nearest house, so I asked, and they said it was fine to go along, and yes, there was a waterfall along there. My dog was even welcome, but as they warned me that snakes were likely, Tess had to view the falls on the lead.
Wahlenbergia gracilis
The forest was pleasant enough, and the walk far too short to justify a long drive, but it was a nice place to be if you happened to be passing by on the way to the coast. On my first visit, there was only a trickle, so I waited for a decent dump over on the east before returning. I decided the rain of last week should do the trick, so called back in on Friday. I was rewarded with water falling this time.
Cornwall Falls
It is worth going a little beyond the falls, as far as the next creek. There is an old “building” of interest, covered in greenery in that next gully. There is a place to park where my blue line begins.