Horizontal Hill 2016 Feb

Horizontal Hill 8 Feb 2016

Angela on top of Horizontal Hill, the Guardians behind
Our friend, Mark, first mooted the idea of climbing Horizontal Hill in the dead of last winter, when the nights were frozen and the days icy. I wanted to climb this too, but had decided reservations, for the route involves a 350ms wade through Lake Marion before you begin ascending. I thought about wearing my wetsuit, and meanwhile bought a pair of light, padded Wellingtons. I was not looking forward to the ordeal, but, as Malcolm Fraser said, “Life wasn’t meant to be easy”, and well, you take what comes in this business of trying to climb all the Abels.

Moody sunrise at Lake Marion
Luckily, on the appointed day, it was snowing, as well as icy and freezing, and we climbed Mt Hobhouse instead. We waited for the next opportunity, but other mountains pushed the queue for one reason or another, until last weekend, when I noticed that, with a little rearrangement of several programmes, our old intrepid trio could climb this together before returning to our separate agendas. Now hyperthermia and dehydration could replace hypothermia – a much more comfortable way to damage your body.
Now, the dreaded icy lake was a delightful warm bath. Padded Wellingtons were replaced by open crocs and the wetsuit allowed to continue gathering dust in the laundry. The wade was fun, even if I did keep sinking, and then we left the water behind to head upwards on bearing through rather lovely pandani forest, travelling towards the head of a pointy spur. Punishment for the unexpected ease here was the inevitable band of scoparia, but I have seen a lot worse and we swallowed our medicine, and in under two hours were doing the last climb up a sandstone cliff to the summit area, to at last sit up there and eat and drink in both view and water.

Our route up Horizontal Hill
Next morning, after a relaxed beach breakfast, Angela and I set off for our next goals, vi.z, Falling Mountain and Castle Crag.
http://www.natureloverswalks.com/castle-crag-falling-mountain/
It was actually too hot to climb them that afternoon, so we got ourselves into position for an early assault in the coolness of the next morning. It was good we didn’t go up that afternoon, as Angela was not feeling at all well, and the next day she found a tick on her body that we assume was the cause of the malaise.

Massif, Geryon North, Du Cane Range 2016 Jan

Mt Massif, Geryon North and the Du Cane Range High Point  Jan 2016.

Mt Geryon at sunset. Day One: from the Pool of Memories
Surely it is impossible to look at Mt Geryon and not be impressed by its shape and slope, and the way it yells “impossible” at you when you think of climbing its vertical slopes. It’s a mountain that demands – and receives – respect. It is one of those mountains that I never dreamed I would be able to climb, but something has changed, and here I stood, ready to give it a go.

Meanwhile, my love affair with Mt Massif dates back to 2011, and has  its provenance and inspiration in Dave Noble’s blogsite, where I stared at his pictures and wanted to go there and sleep on top. At last I stood on the startline to do just that.

Du Cane Range High Point, with the stick jutting out of the cairn kind of thing

Day One was unexpectedly “interesting” in that we encountered a guy who wandered into our company after being missing for over thirteen hours. He had no raincoat, no food, no map, compass, torch or phone (it had run out of battery at about 10pm). Whatever else one might need, he didn’t have that either, but he did have an excellent camera and quality tripod, so (in that regard) was a man who had priorities akin to my own.

Day Two: traversing the rocky scree around Mt Massif

He didn’t really know where he had come from, couldn’t say if he had come downhill at all, chose a random (but impossible) lake on the map as a place he thought he had passed, yet we managed to somehow work out that he had reached us from Lake Elysia, most fortuitously wandering east and not west, where people do not get found. He had gone to the Pool of Memories to photograph stars, got whited out and disoriented, and so thought it was a good idea to wander aimlessly all night and into the next day. The fact that he found people might unhappily reinforce this dangerous modus operandi. Meanwhile, others at Elysia had reported him missing, so helicopters were circling overhead. Dave from our group luckily had a satellite phone, so called the police and S&R to report the lost as found. However, two hours later – due to lack of communication from one department to another, one can only assume – they were still flying around, trying to find the found.

Day Two, Big Gun Pass: The Gun

We had set off with him to return him to his tent under escort, managing to use sign language near the Parthenon saddle to at last convince the police buzzing above that we had him. He certainly gave the bushwalkers up there plenty to talk about that weekend. He had the generosity and insight to thank our group for saving his life. He’s one lucky guy. I should have grabbed the opportunity and tried to swap my lunch for a sony A7, but he still seemed to know what was valuable.

Day Two. Vaughan surveys the abyss

Day Two. After a day one where our goals were a long shot off the focus, we settled down to business this day …. except that the weather didn’t. As a result, we danced around in fog for 1.5 hours hoping it would change its mind and be merciful to my Mt Hyperion desires, but it would have none of it. Frustrated, I left the others who were munching lunch in the drizzle, and at least collected the Abel of the Du Cane Range High Point before I ate. Now I had bagged something I felt a bit more relaxed.
And so we wended our way towards the famous Big Gun Pass, with a compass bearing so we might find it. There were no vistas today, but the sight of the Big Gun as a clouded silhouette in the misty ambient gloom was even better. Views could come later.

Day Two. Vaughan surveys a different abyss. He’s getting pretty good at this.

The way up the other side looked particularly steep to this group of heavily laden walkers, but everyone dug in and climbed well, and the high point was soon in sight. Eagerly we each pictured a kind of summit cairn with pastures of green grass to camp on stretching beyond: a veritable land flowing with milk and honey. And what were we given? Not just a wasteland of wild, slippery rocks, but ones whose trajectory was a very sharp slope downwards. We stared over the abyss with dismay. In silence the group sat for a fifteen minutes’ rest taking in the disappointment, conjuring up energy for the unexpected task ahead. If we could find a safe passage down that, we would then have to wind our way laboriously around the rocks to the grassy funnel we could see that must lead to the bowl beneath the summit further away. Straight ahead was a monstrous cliff wall that you couldn’t scale even with ropes.

Day Two. On top of Mt Massif at last. One of many views from one of many possible summits.

A route was found, and we lowered ourselves down the cracks and rocks to a place from which we could contour around, a group of sick crustaceans with all limbs attached to the black mossy rocks, trying to prevent slides into injury.

Day Two: a sorry sight. Fires raging behind Cathedral. You can also see another fire front back left. You cannot see any helicopters dropping water to save these gentle tree giants.

Once the tension of the traverse was over, the others quite sensibly wanted to relax and set up camp, but I am not able to relax if something is not finished, so grabbed my gps and set off for the summit, visiting all interesting high points up there for their different photographic angles, checking at the end that my blue line had landed on the actual summit at some point. There was no happy celebratory group with handshakes and high fives like there had been on the Eldons. It was a most anticlimactic summit for one that had been desired for so long.

Day Two: Mt Massif summit. An unusual view of Ossa, Pelion West, Thetis and more. Cradle back right.

Day Two: a different view of Ossa et al

Day Three presented itself as a marvellous collection of diamonds and pearls strewn carelessly all over the grass in every direction. The mist was enchanting. We were not in a rush, so the pace was leisurely as we enjoyed all these sights and the feeling of total bliss that comes with being in a place like this.

Day Three: fabulous sunrise views from Massif

The route over the rocks was much quicker in this direction, and there were no dismaying surprises, as long as you discount Rolfe’s cracking a rib. It seems quite the fashion these days. Mine is ten days out from being broken, so I had no trouble understanding the pain he was now in. As a result, a small subgroup went straight back to camp after lunch while the remaining ones headed for Geryon North.

Day Three. Rob and Cam arrive to check out the early light. You can see our tents below.

We arrived at the black dot on the map, and the group proclaimed it as Geryon North and cheered. However, I am an honest peak bagger, and knew that this flattish hill (with very impressive cliffs) did not fit the bill despite its cute black dot and height of 1507. The real Geryon North has a much higher height and it was staring at me across the abyss. Would anyone else come with me this time? Vaughan said yes. Hoorah. Then Rob and Cam joined in. More joy. Off we set while the others sat down for a rather dull spectator sport.

Action in the mist

 

Day Three. Climbing back up to be allowed to climb down to Big Gun Pass

The watchers reported that it looked very dangerous. Vaughan recounted how his new role as father to a toddler and baby gave him a new purpose to be alive. Rob (father) admonished Cam (fouteen-year-old son) to be careful every two minutes. Louise was lead by the summit fever that always overtakes her, but is no risk taker. We were being careful, but Vaughan did say he found this climb harder than Federation in its technicality. We had to back out of a few manoeuvres; there was some light grunting, handholds where limbs couldn’t reach the only rock one on offer, helping pushes or pulls and eventually the team made it. This time there was joy at the top, and we all joined hands to touch. The views, of course, were breathtaking. Sure, you can hire a helicopter and get the same thing, but you will never get the joy that grated fingertips and slightly lacerated gear in your effort to get there will give you.

Cam on the lump called Mt Geryon that is not Geryon North yet

Here is our goal, up nice and close now. East face looks quite exciting

And here is one from the tippy top

Before the others set out for the Pool of Memories, we had seen from high above that someone had dared to beat us to the pool; a little red tent was in “my” spot. This person obviously had good taste in views, but must be evacuated. We instructed our forerunners to be rude and raucous and thus drive them away. When we at last descended and I met the fellows, however, I decided to be raucous but skip the rude bit. These were people who were my friends in Instagram and here they were in the flesh: the fabulous Luke Tscharke, Tim Wrate, Francois Fourie, and Dylan Toh. I was delighted to hear they had consulted this blog when deciding where to go for their trip. As a result, the paparazzi lineup for sunset was quite amusing. Now I didn’t feel at all silly lugging 3 kgs photographic equipment all this way.

Mt Geryon says “good night”. Pool of Memories.

And here is sunset looking in the opposite direction.

Day Four. We climbed down – reluctant to leave this place, yet refreshed from it – to resume our daily lives, descending through glorious rainforest to the Geryon Climbers’ Camp in the valley below, and thence to Pine Valley and eventually to the lake where we killed about three hours throwing stones waiting for the ferry.

Love rainforest. Hate, hate to think of it burning further east.
Route up Mt Geryon North from near Du Cane HP – please note. This is only for the experienced and confident.
 The map to Mt Massif is also available on request. 

Pandani Shelf and Eves Peak 2016 Jan

Pandani Shelf and Eves Peak to begin the New Year 2016

“Ah this is the life”, I said with meaning as I gazed around at our tents pitched amongst King Billy Pines and Pandanis, with swathes of pineapple grass nearby, burgeoning lumps of lurid green cushion plants, a creek of superbly clear water maybe 50 metres away, and Mts Anne and Lot clearly visible, brooding darkly above. Light accentuated the claret edges of the curling green pandani leaves.


The Wilderness offers many different things to different people, as well as a range of various pleasures to a single person, depending on his / her current mood or needs. It can be a quiet place for reflection or meditation; a place where you can submerge yourself in the almost overwhelming beauty of a vista or detailed minutiae. Or it can be the venue for an adventure – solo or with friends. Some use it as a sporting arena in which they can pit themselves against the challenges of nature, or as the most beautiful workout place imaginable. Many harbour it as an escape from the stresses of work or of modern life in general (it should not surprise you to learn that bushwalking was very popular in the Great Depression of the 1930s; walkers went bush, where the woes of debt and unemployment could easily be forgotten for the time they were there). For many of us, it is a place where our soul finds peace.

 Wilderness means all of those things on different occasions to me, and there are thus times like last weekend when I go there, not to climb a new peak or have a grand workout in nature, but just to be there, pure and simple: to sit back and stare at the wonder of it all. What better place for that than a circuit that encompasses Eliza Plateau and Pandani Shelf? (Many other places, of course, equal this venue for the purposes).


Here, roughly, is our rather meagre itinerary:

Day 1: Drive down from Launie, avoiding (with enormous self-restraint on my part) the temptation to eat cake at The Possum Shed en route. Even so, we started so late I was already desperate for lunch before my pack was on my back. I was promised l could dine at the cute little hut at High Camp, which seemed like a very late lunch to me. Going was much slower than expected, as, not only was the day exceptionally hot (33 in Launie), but one of our party (who claims he didn’t overindulge on New Year’s Eve) was rather ill, and looked the colour of a garish IG sunset after a mere ten minutes. Our schedule became akin to “walk fifteen, stop thirty”. No matter. The view on the ridge was lovely despite the general haze of the day and we had all day to go almost nowhere. We switched from Plan A, which was to camp on Pandani Shelf, to a new plan to sleep the first night on Eliza Shelf. We camped with a massive view, tarns to drink from, and a mountain for me to climb for sunset (Eves Peak).

Day 2 was even shorter. We went from this spot to the Anne / Eve saddle, and then circled Anne on the non-walkers’ route side (i.e., to the west). Most climbed Anne from here, before the whole group continued on to the shelf, which we briefly explored before setting up camp. I was not feeling at all well myself this day, so once my tent was up, just sat around enjoying the mood of the place and chatting to the others. It is such a treat to have the leisure to do precisely that and take some time out from always being underway, much as I love movement and summiting new peaks. Mountains offer me healing to refresh me for my role of being my husband’s carer. I was so enjoying this existential pleasure I didn’t even bother going off looking for photographic opportunities.

Day 3: On this day, we exited the shelf, walking along the fabulous ridge on which it lies for a while to near where a most dramatic sinkhole can be seen far below. From the small group of King Billy Pines before the hole (biggish cairn), we then dropped steeply off the edge, following an assortment of tags in the rather enthusiastically marked pad through King Billy forest up high, and later, rainforest (lots of wonderful Myrtles) to the button grass plains below. From there it was a trudge along a pad as wide as a pinelog plank on mostly dry mud – although one of our small party of six went in up to her thighs in the goo. After the shade of the forest, the button grass with stunted, face-high melaleucas to be pushed out of the road nearly every step felt glary and relentlessly hot, but the medicine did not take too long to swallow. Unexpectedly, we popped out onto the road. In less than a minute a car appeared, travelling in the wrong direction, but I managed to uphold my unblemished record of success in these matters, and procured us a lift with the very nice driver who agreed to turn around and go backwards for 10km to take two of our party back to get the vehicles.

We made it to the Possum Shed before it closed and so had a wonderful time sharing cake and coffee at table together beside the river before continuing our drive home. (No, they do not sponsor me. I say this simply because I love home-cooked food and quality caffeine).

 Rolfe photographing the sinkhole.

 

Cradle Mountain 2015 Dec

This trip into the wilderness had a completely different feel to it than normal excursions whose intent is to summit a mountain.

This one had no summits (and no points), and added nothing to any of my collections. It wasn’t even a workout – I had already had a run and done Pilates that day, although I did climb up a couple of hundred metres. And it wasn’t about fellowship with kindred spirited friends: I was solo. It was just about being there, up high in the vastness of nature and having it all to myself. Somehow you merge more easily with the expansiveness of infinity when you are alone.

I love my solo routine. It is so unhurried. I had fun photographing before I retreated further to my own private spot in the light that was left to me: unreachable and invisible up high. I wasn’t hungry – I hadn’t really done much work – but decided I like the ritual of boiling my billy and eating my dehy concoction watching the last of the fading light, so carried it through.

At 3 a.m. I got up to check out the stars. I had my tripod all ready to do some night photography, but I have never seen such a black night: not a star in sight. I clung to the tent in case I should somehow lose it before retreating back inside.

The morning schedule mimicked that of the evening: boiling water, consuming a little hot food, taking lots of photos around sunrise and then exit. Even with that early start, I came across the first of the tourists on their way up the mountain about half way down the Marions Lookdown route – an Austro-Italian combo. They seemed nice; we had a small chat as we passed each other by, but I felt less friendly towards them when I found a fresh pile of human faeces nestling right on the edge of the track, along with two filthy bundles of toilet paper.

When back at Dove Lake, I went down to the water’s edge to decide whether I wanted a photo there: sublimity, clarity of water, shapely pebbles, one of the world’s iconic mountains …. and another pile of human faeces. There is a toilet block 100 metres away. I was disgusted!! How can you go to such a beautiful area and then wantonly desecrate it? I leave it with you to find a sensible solution to this mystery. I shall try to not let it cloud my memories of beautiful mountains, trees and water.

Oldaker Falls 2015 Dec

The Oldaker Falls are situated in the upper section of Burnie Park, right in the centre of town (kind of) – there for all the locals to enjoy if they move their feet just a little. There was an unfortunate amount of rubbish at the base, which somewhat marred their impact. It seemed odd that council would build paths to the falls, yet fail to clear the base of debris. They’re still worth a visit, especially if combined with one or two of the many other waterfalls on offer in this region, such as the Guide Falls or Upper Cam Falls (see separate blog posts).


Oldaker Falls, Burnie Park