Mother Cummings Peak 2015 Jun

Quamby, Drys and Projection Bluffs from the top of the climb
Mother Cummings Peak. I have a friend who believes that disappointments come in threes. Unfortunately, I’d used up four before I’d even reached the plateau at the top of the Western Tiers, but that’s OK. Surely it meant the rest of the day would be fantastic – which it nearly did, except that disappointment number five was awaiting me at the end of the journey. Here are the early ones:
(1) My car bounced like a kangaroo up the southern outlet, most unwilling to participate in a day’s jaunt in the mountains. This boded ill. Once up, however, she took off, so I picked up hope.
(2) She then stalled three times in the Deloraine carpark after I’d stopped, and a fourth time about a hundred metres down the road. I limped quietly back, abandoned the unfaithful beast, and climbed into a friend’s car. My Kia could remain a problem for the end of the day.
(3) And maybe you think this shouldn’t count, but the scenery was absolutely magic as we sped along the route west out of Deloriaine: white, heavily-frosted grass; a magnificent pure white mist rising above it; photogenic, dark cows peppered here and there to give foreground interest; an indigo Quamby Bluff rising out of all this for grandeur and contrast behind. It was perfect, but I was no longer in my own car, so had to let it go. I still mourn the loss of that “photo that got away”.
(4) I had come armed with my macro lens and was even carrying a light tripod, but it was so cold there were no fungi at all, so my disappointments mounted. Up the track though the rainforest we went, having fun despite all these setbacks.

Admiring the view

As we crested the plateau at the end of most of the climb, we were treated to a delight, so I decided I needed to do some sort of subtraction on the list above. In that crisp, clear air, all outlines were sharp and beautiful. You could see countless surrounding bluffs and peaks with wonderful clarity. Perhaps even better was the cornucopia of artistically frozen tarns with white rings and stripes, all sparkling in the beautiful sunlight. Changed by the sun fairy into tiny children, we played on the tarns, seeing which ones would take our weight (fortunately, all of them). I changed macro to wide angle, and played away with my camera as well, always happy to be going “click”. The Scotts Road had been an excellent starting point: we were at the top in less than an hour’s walking time (not counting play time). If you count the distractions of beauty, who knows how long it takes? It was so early we couldn’t even have lunch on the summit, and had to wait until the next peak, alas.

One of many icy tarns

Dining on said next lump, listening to banter flying to and fro and enjoying the dramatic drops and cliff lines, soaking up the fugacious rays of warmth piercing bravely through the sharper ambient temperatures, I felt deeply contented. I looked at my watch. The time was good. We were now at the furthest point from the car. The rest of the route looked easy. I would get to work on time despite not having my own car for a quick getaway.

Unfortunately, disappointment number (5) reared its ugly head as the journey continued and continued, the party making slow progress through the glorious rainforest in the final kilometres of our journey. There was nothing I could do about it, but I became quite distressed, knowing my students would be waiting for me and that I was letting them down. I hate letting anyone down, but especially my students. At least when I finally reached my abandoned car, it started without a murmur (or jump) and bravely sped me to my destination. I dashed into the room of nicely dressed people in my muddy boots, filthy gaiters and torn pants. My students didn’t bat an eyelid, being used to seeing me in odd attire, no doubt. Instead, they greeted me with a hug, glad that I had managed to get there at last, albeit late. I love them all.

Phil on the northern hump, with Ironstone behind

Route notes: via Scotts Rd. From Meander, head south along the Meander Falls Rd until you come to a right hand fork labelled “Scotts Rd”. This leads to the Scotts Rd Lookout (fine view). The end of the road and the start of the track is just beyond that. The bushwalking forum does not discuss this route (not that I could find), and the Tastracks’ offered routes (two of them) do not present this as an alternative: they suggest coming via Smoko Ck (beautiful) or Western Ck – also nice – but this route is fast and efficient, if getting to the top quickly is your intent. Very old maps call the southern, bigger lump “Cummings Head” and the lower, more dramatic northern one “Mother Cummings Peak”. In fact, if you want to say you’ve climbed Mother Cummings Peak and you’re talking to a pedantic peak bagger, then you need to have climbed the southern (higher) one. We climbed both for good measure, but the northern one was for fun – well, they both were, but the northern peak was a “pointless” and “Abel-less” peak, done purely because climbing things is enjoyable, whether or not they’re on someone’s list or worth a point in some motile and relative list of points to be accumulated.

So, we parked at the (Scotts) road’s end and ascended by a clear path to the peak. From there, as you can see, we headed north. There is a path that goes via the valley, but our intent was to avoid dropping that far, and to head cross country and north over higher ground to a point where we eventually joined the valley track as it ascended once more to go to the former summit, now “pointless” (but dramatic and photogenic) hump.

Boys playing on ice

From that northern hump, we descended on a clear track to the east of a stream, as per map, until we hit a road, which we followed to the east, until the waypoint, which is the point at which it stopped. From here, we made our way cross country, consciously gaining contours to reach the obvious shelf, but not climbing it straight up. This was not hard going. If you are doing this route, my advice is to stick near to the steep ground on the right when on this shelf, using it as a navigational handrail, until you intersect the track and follow it left to your car. My route was outvoted by the others, and we spent a lot of time floundering around in flat swamp, knee deep in muck. We saved a bit of distance but lost a lot of time. (My blue lines don’t meet to make it clearer where the car was.)

Liffey Falls 2015 May Fungi

Liffey Falls – mostly fungi. May 2015.
Mt Bobs seemed a pretty unwise destination when it looked as if every tree in the state was trying to uproot itself, and when the car could barely stay on the road, struggling against the force of crosswinds. Having seen the forecast in the week before, we cancelled our intended expedition (again, oh woe. Will I ever get to see this mountain? This is the fourth cancellation). The attacking rain that accompanied the ferocious wind made the decision easier to bear. Instead of Bobs, my husband and I chose the much tamer alternative of fungi hunting in our local area, and went to Liffey Falls.

There we found abundant fungi, and there was even a rather flooded waterfall at the end.

Coprinus sp I presume. As you can see, they were present in abundance.

I have labelled this mycena firma. Hope I’m right
Hygrocybe miniata is my best guess for this one
Mycena interrupta. No need to guess for this one.
I’m pretty confident this is Russula persanguinea
This is a singleton of the group below, but I haven’t identified these yet
And yes, at the end of the fungi display was the waterfall, beautiful as ever. 

I have also included some shots I took on our way home from climbing Mt Littlechild. Our return route took us via Lilydale, so it would have been churlish not to pay these Falls a short visit. Our courtesy was repaid with a sighting of three giant cortinarius archerii specimens, fresh out of the ground and shining in their joy to see the world (see pictures under a separate LIlydale Falls blog)

Sedgwick 2015 May

Mt Sedgwick, May 2015

Hoorah. The summit of Sedgwick.
“Look, there she is. Would you like to stop for a photo?” Mark’s voice was hopeful. I saw the dull, undelineated shape, the murky veil that still robbed the rocks of detail, and lack of foreground interest. Surely there would be a better view of our mountain than this.
“Na. I’ve got summit angst”, I said as I pressed on. “I promise not to have summit angst on the way back down. We can stop if we see the mountain then.” Poor Mark. We never did see the mountain again, but really, we never did see it the first time either.

More summit – I didn’t stop to take photos on the way up, such was my determination to actually get there before the weather got any worse.

I would love to say that climbing Mt Sedgwick was a case of veni vidi vici. That was certainly our intention. However, the actuality is that the veni bit was very easy; vidi was just about impossible all day; and as for vici … well, after a bit of stuffing around in the first hour, yes, vici took place, but was not at any point assumed before the trig loomed nice and close in the thick mist that enshrouded the mountain that day.

Summit again – various angles. I’m sure there is a view out there

Before I begin, I must say that we are indebted to LWC for doing the spadework of negotiating with John, who drove us through CMT property at Queenstown, and to the General Manager of CMT who allowed it. We wish John the very best of luck in his continuing establishment of a Tour company in the region. It was our intention to attack Sedgwick from the south, and we had permission to do it: a huge bonus. Even with making a couple of errors getting started, and walking an extra 1.3 kms, some of which was in thick bush, we were at the top in three hours’ elapsed time – about 2 hrs 40 walking – and descended, knowing what we were doing, in two hours (walking time, with one photo stop extra).

Luckily I love rocks in mist 🙂

Unfortunately, I had a few stray waypoints on my map that made it confusing to know where the best point to leave the track and forge a way up the spur was. (On the way back down it was patently obvious.) Things didn’t quite match what we had been led to believe, but once we were on the quite narrow ridgeline, everything fell into place. Then, the only perceived difficulty that could arise was the fact that we could see nothing, so might possibly choose an unsatisfactory route up the top that would land us in a cul-de-sac cliff face. It didn’t happen, but neither of us counted this mountain as bagged until we saw the cairn.

This was the nearest we got to a view all day. Mark was very excited by it. It hints at possibilities.

It was very cold on top, and it was a bit early for lunch anyway, so I only ate half a meal so we could get out before even worse weather closed in. The clouds were on the move, and rain was forecast for the afternoon. The wind had gained in force. Down we went, hoping to pick up our route from the ascent pretty quickly. We wavered a bit but then found it, along with a helpful wire that we had found on the way up (forewarned about this by LWC). Once the wire finished, we kept on the point of the spur and the going was pretty good, all things considered. When the bush thickened up further down and the ridge became less defined, we actually found a very old pad, with faded and sun-damaged pink markers, and a definite tread line on the ground. This pad was not quite on the spur, but ever so lightly to its east. We followed it until it emerged onto a road which is not on the map. Below is a map of our descent route. I wiped the ascent one, as it would not be helpful to anyone planning a route.

Man (Mark) and his views.

If you get permission to go this way, head up the spur (north) on the unmapped road. When it finishes, you’ll find a cairn, and to the right (we hung a bit of old pink tape there – if it lasts) you’ll find the narrowest of former pads. Small it may be, but being on it saves heaps of time and bush bashing!! I hope you get the view that we failed to see.

The whole route, from where we were dropped off to the summit, first following an old boggy former road of a deteriorated sort and then the spur (more detail below).

 

Map showing the route from where we left the road to go up the spur. The waypoint is the end of the unmapped road and the start of the tiny pad to the right of that.

 

Mensa Moor (and Magnet Crag) 2015 May

The rich colours of a frosty morning.

Mensa Moor. We gazed out at the spur opposite that lead to what appeared to be the summit of Magnet Crag, lavishly decorated in shining sheets of ice, but punctuated with patches of green that could provide a passageway. It was a gamble. If it worked, it could be faster than the rather horrific route a few hours ago. But if we failed, it could spell disaster. We didn’t really have time for failure with the overnight temperature said to be minus 5. We both knew how rapidly temperatures could drop once the sun set, and even though it was only an hour and a half since we’d lunched on the summit,  the rays of the sun seemed disturbingly low – seemed to have adopted already the aureate tones of late afternoon.
“What do you reckon?”
“I’m game if you are.”
“Yep. Let’s give it a go, but back out quickly if it’s not working, and if we meet obstacles, take them to the right, nearer to the way we came down.”
I felt a little nauseous with the risk, but if we pulled it off, everything could go much better than it had done in the morning.

The scene that greeted us soon after we popped out onto Mensa Moor. We liked that castle structure behind

But let me begin at the beginning, when we set out excited to be on another adventure. So excited that I failed to turn off the lights of my car which didn’t have the courtesy to bleat at me and tell me so. That would be a problem for later. The beauty of our surroundings covered in a layer of white rime, and the crispness of the air captivated us. The ski poles led us onwards to higher ground. The creeks were ribbons of white ice with water flowing underneath. Icy pools were everywhere, and the rocks we were supposed to walk on were treacherous. We chose the bushes beside them, wondering what lay ahead.

The summit area, looking across to Stacks Bluff

Once it became time to descend into the valley of Borrowdale (Rafferty Creek), our pace slowed from cautious to downright slow. This route was pure rock, and that translated to pure ice. Not for the first time, I was excessively grateful that we had elected to travel with our full packs rather than be daring and try to do the whole thing in a day (which we would have happily done had it been summer; but it wasn’t). We had the luxury of time and leisure on our hand. No time-induced panic need drive us into lack of caution today. Neither of us was in the mood for broken bones, so we maintained four or even five points of contact on this uneven slippery slide as we made our way to the valley.

Looking back to Mensa Moor from the ridge leading up to Magnet Crag once I’d decided we were going to make it.

Even with all that care, we were up on the flat ridge to the north of Coalmine Crag by just over an hour, and I had allowed an hour and a half for this section. Things were going well. Even so, I didn’t want to waste daylight erecting tents, so we dumped the packs with reflective tape over them and set out with minimum delay (apart from my normal need to have a tiny snack). The going was delightful. Everything had crisp outlines and saturated colours; the ice shone all around us. We were having a ball, and the dance continued all the way to the “left hand summit” (E) of Magnet Crag, from which our descent began, as per the black line route on the old 1:100,000 map.

Summit cairn on Magnet Crag, looking out over Mensa Moor below and Stacks Bluff beyond.

This started out fairly scrubby and descended into a nightmare of prickles-in-your-face scoparia. We slid down some sizeable drops. It was fine enough, but we were both thinking the same thoughts about how unpleasant (and difficult) climbing back up was going to be. Down the bottom we steered for broken ground which seemed faster than detouring around the myriad tarns and surrounding scrub. Going was not rapid. My watch kept recording the passage of passing time to an extent that did not please.

A happy Angela relaxes on the western summit of Magnet Crag.

The climb up to Mensa Moor was the part that had the bad reputation. What was it going to be like? We dared not think, but continued along to where the spur off Magnet Crag met the valley, the point where I wanted us to change direction. We both then eyed up some broken ground on the flanks of the northern lump of Mensa and aimed for it. It offered us a wonderful free (of scrub) ride that gained us a great deal of trouble-free height, and left us with not much climbing to do to reach the saddle between the two parts of our goal. We were both very happy, as we’d been told that the top of Mensa Moor had pleasant alpine walking, so our trials were nearly over …. we thought. We decided that our informants’ information was very dated. The top of Mensa was scrubby, but compared to what we’d been through on the flanks of Magnet, we were fine. It’s just that we expected the kind of glorious walking we’d had on Coalmine Crag.

Looking in a more easterly direction from the western summit of Magnet

Be that as it may, we had our goal in reach, so walked purposefully along past the old black-dot-on-the-map summit to the new fancy-equipment-determined one where we had lunch watching the sheets of ice lining the dolerite columns opposite calving off from time to time. The total walking time thus far had been 3 hrs 33. OK, but slower than the Abels‘ book’s 3 hours. Again, we were glad of our plan to camp on Coalmine.

The tents are pitched, the sky adopts roseate hues. Time to gather water and make some soup.

… And this takes us to the opening paragraph and the fact that one and a half hours after lunch, we were willing to risk a route which was totally unknown yet held out the possibility of being more pleasant. As we climbed, however, I felt nauseous with anxiety. The cost of failure at this point could be extreme. Did we still have time to do a different attack if this didn’t come off? Things were going well. I believed we hadn’t wasted too much time even if we landed in a cul-de-sac, yet still I couldn’t relax. At one point, about two thirds of the way up, Angela went left and I went right of an obstacle. Suddenly I heard a cry. An excited cry. Angela had found a cairn. That meant someone else had at some time done this route. That meant this route WAS possible. That meant that we were going to make it back to the packs and it also meant we were going to live. A huge weight lifted from my shoulders. My chains fell off; my heart was free. My nausea vanished in a flash. I laughed. We could relax and enjoy the superb scenery. The sheets of ice were fun and we continued to find passageways between them, climbing well all the way. Oh what fun it is to climb in a duo on such a day, hey. I relaxed enough to even take some photos. We could now afford the time for this luxury.

Dawn heralds another wonderful day.

When we breasted the top, we decided we had enough time to summit the lump of rocks to our left, climbing to a very attractive cairn and enjoying the views it offered over the area we’d just come from (and more). Now we could delight in the long shadows and yellowing light, as they were no longer a threat to our survival. Happily we sauntered back along the crag, down to Borrowdale and up to the broad ridge where our packs (and tents) awaited us. As light faded and temperatures plummeted to an alarming degree, we pitched tents and gathered water, each then retreating to her aegis of relative warmth. The sky was a beautiful soft pink as we disappeared to boil our billies.

Morning glory. Looking towards Legges Tor; waiting for the sun to rise

Next morning, we rid the tents of the stalactites of ice lining the ceiling, put on our frozen boots, struggled with the fact that our water had become ice inside the tent, under our sleeping bags, and set out to explore our white, icy world. I was already sad that this glorious adventure was almost over. Everything had been so superbly beautiful. It was a marvellous world up there. Despite the minus five degree temperature, I had breakfast outside where I could appreciate the coming of the sun to the rocks around, and its kiss of warmth as it arrived at our tent site. Life is a wonderful gift.

The sun arrives. Taken from a high point on Coalmine Crag, looking towards to Magnet Crag, Mensa Moor and Stacks and Wilmot Bluffs.
Our route. Yellow waypoints represent my rough guide of where we might want to go. Cyan lines represent where we did go. We dropped off Magnet Crag on the more easterly route but climbed up it using the spur (as per story. This was easily the preferable route). On top we went straight for the summit, but on the way back we followed the cliff lines, partly for the view and partly because the scrub was less dense there and the tiny tarns and pools less numerous. We didn’t have to dodge so much. The way up onto the Moor (more westerly route) was fantastic; the way down, less so.
Track data: 16.6 kms on day one in about 6 hrs 30. On day two, 3.2 kms in one hour. All up, just short of 20  kms in 7.5 hrs. This does not include lunch (short) or snacks (very few indeed). It does include deliberation time and other sundry small stops to navigate etc.